Standing on a mountaintop deck overlooking Drake's Passage, I drink in the brilliant colors of the Virgin Islands -- clear aquamarine waters, dense, verdant forests, glistening white sands -- as the islands spread out before me like a string of beads. Directly below lies the sweep of Magens Bay, an uncluttered nature park and popular sun-worshipper stop.

I drink in the local flavor as well, savoring a freshly made banana daiquiri in the land of golden rum. Mountain Top is just one stop on the tourist trail through St. Thomas, a trail frequented by timeshare visitors and cruise ship passengers. St. Thomas hosts a minimum of three cruise ships daily, including some of the largest ships sailing the Caribbean. The daily influx of passengers brings the shops of Charlotte Amalie alive.

Shopping in Charlotte Amalie means wandering through narrow alleyways along quaint cobblestone paths, ducking into buildings that were once warehouses for the rum trade, a lively part of the island's history. Heavy wooden doors stand open during the day, showing off the eclectic variety of goods available at this port-of-call. All sales on the island are duty free, which is why cruise ship passengers dash into town to stock up on jewelry, alcohol, leather, and luxury items from Europe. Charlotte Amalie is a small city, and a comfortable stroll along the harborfront lets you pick and choose from shopping options as you walk to Frenchtown, at the west end of the harbor, known for its fine dining. On the edge of town nearest the port lies Market Square, a free-wheeling collection of street vendors selling handmade jewelry, batik clothing, and other island wares, all at deeper discounts than the shops in town.

Trade has been an essential part of St. Thomas since the Danish occupation of the island in the 1600s. Terra-cotta colored Fort Christian, the oldest building on the island, dates back to 1680. Stroll through the grounds and enjoy the history muesum. Nearby, take in the Italian Renaissance architecture of the Legislature Building, which flanks the main road from the capital city to the port. Built more than one hundred years ago, the structure once served as a barracks for the island's police force. Numerous downtown buildings provide an opportunity for you to savor the history of the Danish West Indies-and its checkered past. Rising high on a hill within the city, Bluebeard's Castle provides an unmistakable landmark for orienting yourself. Legend has it that the pirate Bluebeard built it for his lady; history says the Danes built it for defense. Climb up and savor the scenic view.

From the port itself, you can take a gondola ride to the top of the nearest mountain and marvel at how the city lies compactly in the eroded half-bowl of an ancient volcano. Since St. Thomas is 13 miles long, taxis are requisite for trips to outlying areas such as Mountain Top and Magen's Bay. Tropical flora awaits at St. Peter Greathouse and Botanical Gardens, on the west end of the island, where you can wander through eleven acres of West Indian plantings, gathering a better understanding of the native plants of St. Thomas. Catch a ride to Red Hook, the jumping-off point for ferryboats to nearby St. John, and hook up with an excellent meal at any of the many seafood restaurants--followed by a creative rum concoction at Duffy's Love Shack. Or do as the locals do--go to Eunice's Terrace and order conch. The meals are satisfyingly down-home Caribbean, the music is fun, and the atmosphere is tropical.

The hotels of St. Thomas lie in seclusion on coves at the ends of dead-end roads, each with their own private slice of the beach. Each has its own magic. If you've come to the island for several days, be sure to hire a taxi for an afternoon and request the scenic tour, climbing up and down the lushly vegetated mountains on narrow roads, stopping at key scenic spots and historic points. Keep your eyes open for the island's largest wild creature-the iguana. Lizards as large as five feet long can be seen roadside, nibbling on wildflowers.

Whether you're visiting for a day or a week, shopping or touring, the tropical sights, aromas, and sounds of St. Thomas will enthrall you. To plan your trip, visit the TravelFacts St. Thomas website at http://www.travelfacts.com/tfacts/htm/stt/sttdest.htm, or call 1-800-372-USVI for your U.S. Virgin Islands planner.

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