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| Paddling Juniper Run |
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Standing knee-deep in muck, I hear an alligator’s deep bellow in the distance. It’s October -- mating season -- and we’re in the thick of ‘gator territory, portaging a canoe. Perhaps canoeing wasn’t the smartest thing to do after a hurricane, but it certainly was exciting! With more pressing human needs to care to, the forest rangers hadn’t cleared fallen trees from the canoe trail. So we had little choice other than to climb out, hoist the canoe over a tree, and climb back in, carefully watching for signs of wildlife. Juniper Run is a winding watercourse whose headwaters start from a set of large subterranean springs near State Rt. 40 in Florida’s Ocala National Forest. The river, a narrow passage of crystal-clear water, writhes northward through dense tropical forest. It’s the only true tropical forest in the continental U.S., thick with scrub palms and thick-leafed trees, crawling with unusual reptiles and amphibians. Once you’re on the river with a canoe and provisions, there’s no easy way to turn back. The course is narrow and the forest shelters wild boar, black bears, and bobcats. The river eventually empties into the Juniper Prairie Wilderness, a massive swampy grassland. In its clear waters, the alligator reigns supreme. It’s not a spot for a casual swim! The current flows slowly north towards Lake George and the St. John’s River; it’s a seven mile paddle to the takeout point .Our expedition started late, forcing us to set a strident pace to catch the last shuttle. Depending on your skill, stamina, and the number of obstacles in your path, the canoe trail takes from four to six hours to complete. At first we ducked under fallen trees -- until my sister nearly ended up with a hairy black spider down her shirt! It’s difficult to navigate this narrow river in places. It’s easy to hit a muddy bank while dodging submerged debris or lounging snakes on low-hanging branches. Fortunately, the water’s warm and shallow through the dense forest cover. You can usually see straight through the clear water to the bubbly springs on the bottom...unless you hit the bank, or a stump, and churn up clouds of mud. It’s easy to tip the canoe, so be sure to have your camera and other valuable possessions in a watertight container. A wooden dock provides a stopping point halfway through the trip. At this sandy hammock, you can stop for a bite to eat and a bit of relief...backcountry style, of course. Deer often come here to graze; you’ll see their tracks lead down to the water’s edge. After you’re done, pack out your garbage so the next party can enjoy a pristine setting for their rest stop. Once the Juniper River spreads out into the prairie, you can choose any of many canoe routes. Some people, fearful of the wide swamp, cling to the right shore along a narrow passage under the trees. Most wildlife tends towards the ribbons of grass near the left shore. I’ve seen herons nesting, snakes coiled on tree limbs, and alligators beating out a path into the tall grass. The pink blobs you’ll see atop waving swampgrass are snail eggs, and sometimes you’ll see a snail crawling along a thick blade of grass. Swift water runs deep through the middle channel. Look down, and you’ll see fish darting amidst the opalescent rainbow sand and eelgrass that characterizes the river’s bottom. Eventually, civilization will intrude in the form of a highway bridge looming over the river. Bear to the right; the takeout is just on the other side of the bridge. Before renting your canoe, be sure to inquire when the day’s last takeout is, so you don’t get caught out in the woods without a ride! The swimming hole at Juniper Springs is a 1940’s effort at making a natural swimming pool out of a massive spring: with safe areas for the kiddies, so they wouldn’t end up in over their heads! Formed of limestone, the “swimming hole” is ugly but utilitarian. The water stays a constant 72 F year-round. The combined water flow from Fern Hammock Springs and Juniper Springs is about 20 million gallons every day. In the swimming hole, the subterranean spring pushes out plenty of water. The spring hosts a variety of saltwater eel that swims inland to spawn. At the lower end of the swimming area is a mill, built in 1935 to generate electric power for the campground. Starting at the water wheel, a self-guided trail leads you through the semi-tropical forest. Side trails will take you to the edge of the run. Watch for the bubbling springs frothing fresh water into the creek, and the fish that love to hide there. For more information, contact Juniper Springs at (352) 625-3147 or contact the USDA Forest Service at the Lake George District, Ocala National Forest, 17147 E SR 40, Silver Springs, Fla. 34488. (352) 625-2520. Appeared in The Women's Voice, 1999 Reprint rights available Photography available For more information about Juniper Springs, see FloridaHikes.com |
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