Moody lighting casting ghostly reflections of ripples on the walls and ceiling sets the tone, the underwater feel, of your immersion in the National Aquarium at Baltimore Harbor. Step over to the balcony, and look down. There, below, gliding effortlessly through the crystal clear water, the rays slide by in mesmerizing patterns. Spotted rays, flexing their fins, flapping like wings. Large black rays, their edges rippling like a ribbon in a breeze. An albino ray slips past like a phantasm, caught in the rhythm of the tank, an endless circular motion.

The National Aquarium’s exhibits focus on the diversity of biomes – following the flow of water from a pond in the Allegheny Mountains to the continental shelf of the Atlantic Ocean – and the diversity of lifeforms that live in these waters. The brilliant colors of sea life counterpoint against inky backdrops—the shocking electric blue of a blue devil, the loud orange and white spots of the clownfish, the soft pink tentacles of an anemone. Puffins frolic on rocky ledges in a refrigerated tank. Heavy mist shrouds the rain forest, where water drips from the trees. A scarlet ibis screams for attention amid the lush greenery. Piranha circle in the water. A delicate blue poison dart frog clings to a twig.

After winding upwards through exhibits to the rooftop rain forest, visitors spiral downwards into the heart of a giant fish tank, pulsing like schools of fish—stopping en masse, enthralled, to appreciate a loggerhead turtle swimming by, then pressing forward to see more. At the end of the tour, a dolphin show focuses on the how and why of Atlantic bottlenose dolphin behavior. Unlike the “show me some tricks!” dolphin shows of yesteryear, this demonstration illustrates just why dolphins frolic, jump, and stand on their tails.

While the National Aquarium is truly the showpiece of the Inner Harbor, there is plenty more to explore. Baltimore is a great destination in any season, since exhibits and shopping are clustered closely together on the waterfront. Visit Harborplace, a specialty mall based in two adjoining buildings, for shopping and great eats, including some of that famous Chesapeake Bay crab. At the Power Plant Complex (nearest Little Italy and the Aquarium), sports fans may want to duck into the ESPN Sports Zone for sports paraphernalia, and book lovers can enjoy an immense Barnes & Noble next door—or perhaps the Hard Rock Café is more to your liking? If your sea legs can handle it, grab a ticket and climb on board one of the numerous seafaring exhibits anchored along the docks, including the coast guard cutter <IT>Taney</IT>, the last surviving ship afloat from the attack on Pearl Harbor. During fair weather, water taxis run from point to point to link harbor attractions and minimize walking around the docks.

Geared towards families with young children, the Maryland Science Center – across the harbor from the Aquarium – provides numerous rotating hands-on exhibits. But the big draw for grownups here is the IMAX theater. On Fridays and Saturdays, visitors can enjoy an IMAX double feature for the price of one show ($10), which includes admission to the museum.

Love Italian food? Then wander over to Little Italy, where dozens of restaurants line the streets, filling the air with tempting aromas. This classic neighborhood has two and three story buildings with restaurants below and apartments above, the tidy streets in sharp contrast to the looming skyscrapers of downtown Baltimore. Try Sabatino’s, a landmark since 1955, with tasty fresh pasta selections and the one-of-a-kind Bookmaker salad—shrimp, salami, cheese, and the most heavenly salad dressing this side of Italy.


IF YOU GO
Baltimore is a comfortable 5-hour drive from Pittsburgh. Follow the Pennsylvania Turnpike east to Breezewood; follow I-70 east to I-695 to reach Baltimore. Watch for signs leading to Inner Harbor attractions. Parking, like in most cities, is scattershot. Several flat lots flank the harbor attractions, or you may opt for a parking garage across the street from Harborplace.

During the winter months, the ship exhibits along the docks may be closed, but all other attractions remain open. The National Aquarium (410-576-3800) and the Maryland Science Center (410-685-2370) may close as early as 5 PM or as late as 8 PM. Call for current hours and pricing. Sports fans will want to keep in mind that Camden Yards is just a few blocks away from the Inner Harbor, tickets for the Orioles games (410-685-9800) are often sold out well in advance.

There are numerous lodging options in downtown Baltimore right at the Inner Harbor, ranging from the upscale Renaissance Harborplace (410-547-1200), the Omni (410-752-110), and the Hyatt Regency (410-528-1234) to many of the standard motel chains such as Days Inn (410-576-1000) and Holiday Inn (410-685-3500).

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