Every June, the pilgrimage begins. Thousands of people with dreams of striking it rich head for Franklin, North Carolina, a small town nestled in the mountains not far from the Great Smokies. For just north of Franklin, treasures lie hidden in soft dirt of the Cowee Valley— icy blue and lilac sapphires, deep red rubies, crystal clear red garnets, sparkling amethyst, and shimmering moonstone. Blessed by geology, the Cowee Valley is the East Coast’s answer to the gem mines of Burma. World-class gemstones lurk under these hills—but who will be lucky enough to find one?

Entrepreneurs flocked to the Cowee Valley as early as 1870, constructing underground mine workings and moving massive hillsides to find corundum (rubies and sapphires suitable for use as industrial abrasives). They also mined kaolin for use in porcelain. In the 1890s, several companies attempted to find the source of the gem-quality sapphires and rubies, with no real luck. They quickly learned that the scattershot nature of finding stones suitable for cutting made it economically unfeasible to continue. Abandoned mining works changed hands, reopening as gem mines for the tourists.

Gemstone tourism is now Franklin’s mainstay. Lining the primary roads through the region are dozens of roadside sluices with signs that tout “buy a bucket and find your own gemstones!” Glitzy billboards and cute gift shops attract visitors who thrill to the find of a real gemstone while panning a bucket of dirt. Looking for a “guaranteed” find? Visit one of these roadside stands, where they “enrich” their buckets of dirt— adding gemstones, but gemstones not necessarily native to North Carolina. Some of the gems are winners, good enough to be cut and mounted for jewelry. Many of the shops have a lapidary on hand to cut that stone and put it in a setting for you. And many visitors are happy with the results, taking home a little bit of treasure from their vacation.

As mineral collectors, my husband and I were eager to find the native mines. We’d heard that Mason’s Ruby & Sapphire Mine was the only mine where you could dig your own dirt. Pete Civitello, the proprietor, greeted us warmly and invited us to look around his rock shop. He then steered us in the direction of tools and buckets, and pointed out where folks had been digging and finding lilac sapphires. We crossed the creek and climbed the slippery mountainside, filling buckets with moist earth.

Back at the sluice, Pete walked us through the proper way to screen the mud, showing us that the heavier sapphires could be tapped away from the lighter micas and quartz once the gravel was clean. It took a little practice, but we began to see the tiny lilac hexagons in the screen. We found that our empty film canisters made a great place to put the tiny gemstones.

Pete also showed us how often visitors miss corundum in their screens. He dug up a shovel full of dirt from under the adjoining sluice and dumped it in Dave’s screen. Sure enough, several small sapphires showed up in the washed gravel. Visitors came and went. The entire day passed without a glance. We’d spent eight hours digging and screening dirt, with a grand total of 39 lilac sapphires and a handful of garnets to show for it. Only two of the sapphires are worth cutting. But we had fun!

If your expectations are to find gemstones, don’t be too disappointed if the native mines don’t produce. “It’s like gambling!” Pete Civitello said. You can always head down the street to an enriched mine to find what you want. Most importantly, enjoy your experience. Drink in the cool mountain air and bask in warm sunshine as you dunk screen after screen of gravel into the sluice looking for that elusive treasure.


IF YOU GO
North Carolina gemstones are well worth the trek to Franklin, just for the fun of it. An annual Gemboree draws thousands during the last week of July. If you prefer quieter times, most mines are open from May through October. Be sure to take in the surrounding scenery— the grand cascades of Cullasaja Falls, the picturesque views from Wayah Bald, and the hundreds of scenic trails that criss-cross these majestic mountains. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is less than forty miles away, along U.S. 441 north.

Franklin, North Carolina is about a nine-hour drive from Pittsburgh. Follow I-79 and I-77 south (WV, VA), then I-40 (NC) west past Asheville. Take Hwy 23 south into Franklin. Stop at the Chamber of Commerce downtown for a map to the mines, which are located north of town along Hwy 28 (Cowee Valley Road) north. There are several local and chain motels, such as Days Inn, but it’s smart to reserve ahead in the summer. Contact the Franklin Area Chamber of Commerce for more information at 425 Porter Street, Franklin NC 28734 or call 800-336-7829. You can also visit their web site at  http://www.franklin-chamber.com/ 

NATIVE MINES
Cherokee Mine, Ruby Mine Rd, Franklin NC 28734. 
Open May-Oct. Umbrellas, cushions, and snacks available.

Jacobs Ruby Mine, 269 Deforest Lane, Franklin NC 28734. 
Open May 1-Oct 31, 9 AM - 5 PM; closed Sundays. Umbrellas available, first-come, first-served.

Mason’s Ruby & Sapphire Mine, 6961 Upper Burnington Rd, Franklin NC 28734. 
Open Apr 1-Oct 31, 9 AM - 5 PM. Shaded flume available. Dig your own dirt.

Sheffield Mine, 385 Sheffield Farms Rd., Franklin NC 28734. 704-369-8383. 
Open Apr 1-Oct 31, 9 AM - 5 PM. Partially shaded. Picnic tables, snacks available.

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