It’s not on every roadmap. It’s so small that the postmaster knows everyone by name. Yet the village of Elora continues to attract visitors from all over Ontario, visitors who return time and again to sample its charms and pursue an eclectic mix of activities in this tiny cultural oasis.

Nestled on the banks of the Grand River, Elora resembles a watercolor depiction of the 1800s. Stone buildings line Mill Street, lending their watercolor reflections to the placid Grand River. Victorian houses peer out from the lush woods. This Scottish settlement saw its heyday in the mid-1800s, when farmers for miles around would come to swap their goods for flour, whiskey, ale, and furniture. The buildings are still standing, but they’re now populated by an array of artists and their

The local artist’s colony is well represented in Elora’s shops, which display an eclectic array of merchandise. You’ll find antiques and art galleries, handmade clothing, kitchen supplies and wood carvings. Need a kilt? MacLeod’s Scottish Shop can find your tartan. Here in the midst of one of Ontario’s original Scottish settlements, you’re apt to see a kilt-clad gentleman in line at the grocery store. Delis and cafes set out sidewalk tables on sunny days, allowing you to enjoy the colorful plantings and unusual signs gracing the shopping district.

The river cascades past “The Tooth of Time,” a small treed island teetering on the brink of the falls, then drops down into the depths of Elora Gorge. The Mill at Elora, the town’s most notable landmark, perches at the waterfall’s edge. Built in 1832 to grind oats and barley, the Mill and its outbuildings now house a world-class country inn and restaurant. Downriver, hiking trails lead along both sides of the gorge into the Elora Gorge Park. The park hosts many unusual geologic formations, waterfalls, and lush cedar forests -- in stark contrast to the rolling farmland surrounding the area. Elora boasts numerous craftspeople, antique stores, and specialty shops in a quaint village setting.


Mill Street ends at the Elora Mill, a former grist mill that now houses a luxurious country inn. The Mill’s 100’ stone walls stand guard above the falls of the Grand River. Here the river changes character, plunging into a canyon which marks the start of the Elora Gorge. Clean, damp air rises up from the falls. Elora’s defining landmark, “The Tooth of Time,” teeters at the brink of the falls. Like the rock outcrops defining the gorge, it’s a deeply undercut remnant of the remains of an ancient reef. Carved by eons of rushing water, the island resembles a vase topped with shrubs and cedars.

Below the falls, kayakers test their strength in the narrow channels, dashing through stretches of whitewater rapids. The Grand River continues on through a deep, winding gorge into the Elora Conservation Area, where fishermen share the shore with great blue herons. A geologic gem of Ontario, the Elora Gorge hosts a number of unusual limestone formations, such as the vase-like rock towers known as “flowerpots” on the sides of the gorge. One of the largest, “Lover’s Leap,” stands guard over the junction of the Grand River and Irvine Creek. Trails lead to interesting overlooks on both sides of the gorge. One popular site is “Hole in Rock,” where the trail climbs down through a cavern. At the “Stone Sidewalk,” the cliffs overhang the trail well enough to protect you from the weather. At Victoria Park, you can wander down a steep staircase to the banks of Irvine Creek, where there’s caverns to explore.

Recreational activities beckon upriver, too. The Elora Quarry Conservation Area, along the Elora-Fergus Road, is a popular local swimming hole. You can bike or hike along the new Elora Cataract trail, which follows the Grand River upstream 40 km along past numerous riverside villages.

Cultural events go on throughout the year. I’d shown up one summer’s day to discover a weekend of storytelling in full swing. Upcoming 1996 events include The Elora Festival, a series of concerts including classical , folk, and popular Canadian artists; summer art workshops; a fall arts festival; and the “In Love with Elora” photo contest and display. Nearby Fergus hosts a major Scottish Highlander’s Festival and Games each year. Contact the Elora Information Centre for details at 519/846-9841.

As dusk falls, you may opt to see a movie at the Gorge Cinema on Mill Street; they feature two different films each evening. The Elora Community Theatre presents live shows, as does the Theatre on the Grand.

Looking for a pint and a bite to eat? You have your choice of local pubs to haunt, and plenty of restaurants to choose from. The Dalby House and the Desert Rose feature live music on weekends, as does the Penstock Lounge at the Elora Mill Inn. At the Penstock, you can enjoy drinks on the balcony, where lights play on the whitewater scant yards from your table. It’s a lovely spot for late-night discussions, with the soothing rhythm of the waterfall in the background. At any of the pubs, be sure to sample some of the local brew, Elora Pale Ale. It’s a tasty, light-bodied ale from the Taylor and Bate microbrewery on Mill Street.

I’ve had the pleasure of a gourmet dinner at the Elora Mill Inn’s main dining room, where the presentation is exquisite and the food superb, if pricy. Rough-hewn timbers and white stone walls lend character to the spacious room, with its large windows overlooking the falls. Lunch and dinner features such delights such as roast quail salad and beer-glazed breast of capon; a dress code of “business casual” is enforced, and reservations are recommended.

.Serendipity led to my first encounter with Elora. I was on an expedition with my sisters, looking for Ontario caverns. We explored the gorge, and found the village quite by accident, hiking far enough upstream to catch sight of civilization. Afterward, we discovered that no matter which direction we hiked in, we always ended up back in the village! It made for a spooky afternoon, like an episode of “The Prisoner.” We were the only Americans in town. I’ve returned several times, enjoying the comforts of the inn, the beauty of the gorge, and the charm of the village. I’ve also noticed the occasional New York or Michigan license plate in the parking lot of the inn.

So the secret is out: Elora isn’t just for Canadians. It’s a beautiful spot for you to spend a weekend, whether your interests run to antiques, art, or whitewater canoeing. Visit for a day, and you’ll fall in love with Elora forever.

DIRECTIONS
From Toronto, take Rt. 401 West; from Windsor, take Rt. 401 East; from Hamilton, exit the QEW at Rt. 403, exit onto Rt. 6 North; follow it to Rt. 401 West.

Exit Rt. 401 at the Rt. 6 North Guelph exit. Follow Rt. 6 through Guelph. North of Guelph, you may either turn left on the Elora Road (Wellington County Rt. 7) or continue on Rt. 6 to Fergus, turning left at the traffic light onto the Elora-Fergus Road (Wellington County Rt. 19).

It’s about an hour’s drive from the Toronto International Airport.IF YOU GO

The Elora Mill Inn houses 32 rooms scattered between several buildings. Rooms are decorated with antiques and local arts and crafts. Breakfast is included with your lodging; you can choose from a group buffet or a basket delivered to your room. Special weekend activity packages are available, including guided kayaking, hiking, biking, fly-fishing, and hot air ballooning. Room rates start at $135 (Canadian). Call 519/846-4356 for reservations.

Other local lodgings include:
The Gingerbread House B&B, 22 Metcalfe St., Elora. 1-888-THE-GORGE
Hornsby Home B&B, 23 Queen St., Elora. 519/846-9763
The Old Bissell House B&B, 84 Mill St. E, Elora. 519/846-9965
Maplecrest Farm B&B, RR#3, Fergus. 519/787-1849
Trail’s End B&B, 36 David Street E., Elora. 519/846-5800
Village Inn Motel, 66 Guelph Rd, Elora. 519/846-5333

Campsites are available at the Elora Gorge Conservation Area. Call 519/846-9742 for information.


If you’re planning to hike the Elora Gorge, pick up a copy of Elora Gorge: A Visitors Guide, by Kenneth Hewitt, at one of the local shops. The book outlines the geologic history of the gorge, highlighting unusual features and the best trails to follow.

The Grand River Canoe Company rents canoes, kayaks, and bicycles, and conducts guided tours through Elora Gorge. They’ll even watch your kids on Saturdays while you play! Call 519/759-0040 for details.

Check the “In Love with Elora” Internet site for up-to-date information on festivals and events: http://www.sentex.net/~johnhake/dir.html

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