At Niagara Falls, you’ll find two sides to every story: shoppers and hikers, daredevils and conservationists, honeymooners and baby boomers. Americans filter over the border for the natural wonders along the Niagara River, the quaint shops in old Niagara where a dollar stretches to almost two, and the casinos. Canadians wander into Niagara Falls, New York for a taste of its nightlife and its factory outlet malls.

Looking for the wild side of Niagara? A shopping spree in New York awaits. Grab a basket and get in line at the Rainbow Centre Factory Outlet Mall along Rainbow Blvd., or seek out the Prime Outlets on Military Rd. Or if you’d rather drop some bucks without actually buying something, try a trip to the casino. Casino Niagara is the hot spot in Niagara Falls, Ontario, a little bit of Las Vegas right over the border. Try your hand at the thousands of slot machines, or hit the jackpot on the gaming tables—blackjack, baccarat, roulette, you name it!

And then there’s the falls themselves. In New York, you can walk right under the spray of the Bridal Veil, or take a trip on the Maid of the Mist. Either way, you’re bound to get wet. A wander through the park up to the Three Sisters Islands gives you a unique eye-level perspective of a wall of water. On the Canadian side, Horseshoe Falls is a must-see. There’s nothing like the sheer drama of the falls, the awesome power of the water gushing over the river’s rocky lip as you stand mere feet away on Table Rock. An incline takes visitors up to the Minolta Tower for an eagle-eye view of the falls and the cities; an elevator gives access to tunnels that run well beneath Table Rock for a drenching view of the waterfall—from behind.

North of the Rainbow Bridge along the Niagara Parkway, several intense natural attractions bring you close to these incredible forces of nature. On the Great Gorge Adventure, an elevator takes you down to face the wildest whitewater in North America. Or you can get a perspective from on high by riding the Spanish Aero Car, a cable car that crosses over the massive natural whirlpool in the Niagara River. Niagara Glen has strenuous hiking trails leading down over the cliffs and up to great views of the narrowest, deepest portion of the river.

For the mild side of Niagara, take a drive along the Niagara Parkway. This scenic byway ambles along the river from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. Stop at the Dufferin Islands for a bit of bird watching at the wildlife preserve, or a swim in this secluded elbow of the river. A little further down is the Niagara Parks Greenhouse. Enjoy a stroll through the complex, where tropical birds fly free. Just past Horseshoe Falls, Queen Victoria’s Park flows along the riverbank, treating visitors to stunning floral displays.

Near Niagara Glen is the Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens, with Canada’s finest collection of ornamental trees and shrubs. The Niagara Parks Butterfly Conservatory offers a walk through more than 11,000 square feet of indoor rainforest, where nearly fifty species of butterflies flutter free amid tropical flowering plants.

Enjoy a good wine tasting? Stop at the Inniskillin Winery and admire the winery, housed in a vintage prairie barn. Take the tour to learn the winemaking process, and be sure to sample the excellent ice wine for which Inniskillin is renowned. Just north lies Fort George, where you get the flip side of the War of 1812—read all about those American aggressors who were bombing the Canadians from Fort Niagara. Niagara-on-the-Lake soon slips into view: classy buildings, stately inns, excellent restaurants, and plenty of shops. It’s also the home of the Shaw Festival, running all summer with live theater in three village venues.

If you’ve never been to Niagara Falls, go! Mild or wild, there’s plenty of fun for everyone.

IF YOU GO
It takes about four hours to drive from Pittsburgh to Niagara Falls. Follow I-79 north to Erie; I-90 east to Buffalo. Exit onto I-190 (exit 9) and watch for the signs for the Peace Bridge, where Canada’s Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) starts. Americans crossing into Canada should carry proof of citizenship.

Going for the games? You’ll find a handful of gaming dens and bingo halls right off the QEW at Fort Erie, but the Niagara Casino is in Niagara Falls, Ontario. After crossing the Peace Bridge, follow the QEW to Highway 420, Niagara Falls. Follow the signs to the Casino Niagara.

Or game for the outdoors? Swing off the very first exit after you pass through Customs, and follow the signs to the Niagara Parkway. It’ll take about an hour to meander up the Parkway to Horseshoe Falls, two hours to drive the entire length. You can use the Rainbow Bridge to cross back over into New York for shopping and sightseeing.

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