Well away from the hustle and bustle of nearby Toronto, the village of Elora invites you to retreat into the late 1800s. Victorian homes line the quiet treed streets. Stone storefronts crowd along the Grand River, reflecting like a watercolor painting in the placid water. Inside, artists work with wool, wood, clay, and glass to create fine handicrafts. A cup of tea awaits at the Riverview Bistro, and a fresh ale at The Desert Rose Cafe. Clothing boutiques, studios, and specialty shops keep window shoppers busy for hours.

I happened across this quiet Ontario hamlet by chance years ago, when my sisters and I ranged across Ontario looking for caverns to explore. Elora is a geologic anomaly, a cavern-riddled rift in the earth formed by a sudden plunge of the Grand River. After driving through thousands of acres of rolling hills with strawberry and tobacco farms, it’s a surprising visual treat. We visited the Elora Gorge Conservation Area to hike and explore the caverns, then emerged from the woods to discover the beautiful village of Elora. We marveled at the buildings, especially the 19th century grist mill perching on the edge of the falls.

I later returned to sample the delights of the grist mill, the Elora Mill Inn, reserving a room dubbed "Lover’s Leap." It was one of several "named" rooms on the second floor of the Taylor & Bate Brewery, where Elora Pale Ale is brewed in small batches. While the room was small, the high ceiling made it feel spacious. An unusual bunk bed -- full on bottom, twin on top -- filled one niche. Little touches enchanted, like the ceramic pottery washbasin and fragrant soaps in the bath, and freshly made chocolate chip cookies on the nightstand.

A constant, soothing dull roar emanates from the falls outside. The "Tooth of Time," a small flowerpot-shaped island, sits precariously at the top of the falls, covered with cedars and shrubbery. It’s the town’s adopted symbol, appearing on the wrought iron sign for the inn as well as the bottles of ale distributed throughout Ontario.

The thirty-two room inn comprises the grist mill and four other historic stone buildings. Each room is unique, accented with fine wood furniture, and decorated with antiques and Mennonite quilts. Several rooms contain fireplaces, and one has a double whirlpool tub. Rooms vary in price from $140 Canadian for a simple, tasteful space, to $250 for a luxurious suite. Breakfast is included in the price, and you have your choice of a basket delivered to your door for a romantic breakfast in bed, or of joining your fellow guests in the dining room for a hearty breakfast buffet. On snowy days, you’ll enjoy warming up in front of the dining room fireplace, or nesting in one of the book-lined alcoves where you can borrow from the innkeeper’s library.

When reserving a room, be sure to reserve a table in the dining room, where master chefs prepare local ingredients in the finest tradition of European restaurants. From roast quail to chateaubriand, the presentation of these fine foods is dazzling. Below, the Penstock lounge offers simpler fare and drinks, with jazz accompaniments on the weekends. Its porch hovers directly over the falls.

Food is central to Christmas in Elora, when snow and ice transform the town into a winter wonderland. Early each December, the inn hosts an annual Christmas feast, featuring five courses of fine dining. Carolers and a piper accompany the meal, which traditionally features roast goose or pig as the main entree.

While shoppers will delight in the multitude of unusual stores in Elora, the town offers an eclectic mix of activities. In winter, enjoy the Festival of Lights, a special display of decorated Christmas trees. A Festival of Carols is hosted by St. John’s Church, and the Santa Claus parade usually coincides with the Christmas feast. During other seasons, the inn’s staff can help you arrange an adventure along the Grand River. Kayak or canoe the whitewater of the rocky Elora gorge. Hike the trails of the Elora Conservation Area and marvel at the unusual geology, or rent a bike and pedal upriver to Fergus, another charming town with a Scottish heritage. If these outdoor activities don’t appeal, try a romantic voyage in a hot air balloon -- champagne included.

IF YOU GO

Elora is one hour west of Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, and about seven hours from Pittsburgh. From the airport, take Rt. 401 West; if you are driving from Pittsburgh, cross into Canada at the Peace Bridge and follow the QEW to Hamilton, exiting at Rt 403. Exit onto Rt. 6 North; follow it to Rt. 401 West. Exit Rt. 401 at the Rt. 6 North Guelph exit. Follow Rt. 6 through Guelph. A few miles north of Guelph, turn left on the Elora Road (Wellington County Rt. 7), which leads into Elora. Turn left onto Mill Street; the inn is at the end of the street.

For information and reservations, contact the Elora Mill Inn, 1-866-713-5672.

This article orginally appeared in the Pittsburgh Senior News, 2000
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