From the Victorian ramparts of the Hilltop House, high above the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, the endless roar of the rapids below add texture to the sunrise. Below, Harpers Ferry awakens to unfold its story, a frozen reminder of that moment in time when brother took arms against brother and musketballs rattled off the rocks. For it was John Brown, vehement in his stand against slavery, who assembled a raiding party of nineteen men and crossed the long bridge over the Potomac. The night of October 16, 1859, Brown’s raiders stormed the armory, intent on arming an uprising of slaves. Shots were fired. Men fell. The alarm sounded. The raiders found themselves trapped. Ten men died. And Brown would hang for treason—giving the abolitionists a martyr to rally around, fueling northern contentions with the southern states, the opening salvo of the Civil War.

Within the National Park, Harpers Ferry stands still in the 1800s. In the course of a day, you can wander the narrow cobblestone streets and peer into shops; examine exhibits ranging from a smithy to the ruins of a 1700s pulp mill; and admire the many houses and churches laid in brick and stone. More than forty structures tell the story of a town once prosperous from industry, then laid waste during the Civil War. Its strategic placement with converging railroad lines made Harpers Ferry a prime target during the conflict. Railfans will marvel when the C&O chugs through town on a low wood trestle built by the Winchester & Potomac Railroad; commuter trains still stop at the B&O station along the Potomac, carrying passengers to Washington DC.

Nearly halfway through its journey from Georgia to Maine, the Appalachian Trail meanders along the bluffs above the Shenandoah and drops into the center of town, leaving the state on a pedestrian bridge across the Potomac. In town, follow the blazes up the Stone Steps to Jefferson Rock to survey what Thomas Jefferson once called “one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature…worth a voyage across the Atlantic.” Massive Jefferson Rock clings to the cliffs, inviting a clamber on top for an unimpeded view.  Off the trail, the upper town beckons, with old graveyards and storied homes.

Along the Shenandoah floodplain, Virginius Island offers several hours of level walking trails accented with wildflowers and the remains of the industries that once fueled the town. On a quiet rock-strewn beach, relax and watch kayakers at play in the river’s many hydraulics. Or catch the antics of rock climbers rappelling down difficult rock faces on the bluffs.

At day’s end, a climb up High Street – with plenty of antique shops beckoning – helps build up an appetite for home-cooked buffets at the Hilltop House. From the windswept bluff, watch the last rays of light fade over the Potomac, until the sound of crickets in the night drowns out the thunder of the rapids below.


IF YOU GO
Less than a four hour drive from Pittsburgh, Harpers Ferry makes a great weekend getaway. Follow I-70 east through Breezewood into Maryland; after Hagerstown, turn onto MD 67 for the scenic drive south along Blue Mountain. Turn onto US 340 south at Weverton. After crossing the Potomac, the road narrows; the first turn, into the National Park, will lead you through the old town and up the hill into the upper town. Parking is scare in the old town; either walk from your lodgings, look for a space along the Potomac at the old railroad depot, or use the shuttle bus from the park service headquarters on US 340 (parking fee charged).

The Hilltop House (800-338-8319), with its narrow corridors, eclectic rooms, and beautiful views, is an excellent choice for lodging. Call ahead for reservations; special events such as mystery lover evenings often book the hotel full. For a truly unique experience, try one of their “name” rooms such as the Pearl S. Buck or the Thomas Jefferson, fitted with an interesting mix of antique furnishings. Rooms range from $65-$150.

Besides endless opportunities for walking and hiking, Harpers Ferry attracts bicyclists—who may walk their bikes across the pedestrian bridge to enjoy an afternoon on the level C&O Canal Trail. Blue Ridge Outfitters (304-725-3444) rents bicycles and kayaks, and can arrange whitewater rafting trips upriver on the Potomac. An excellent resource for walks around the town is A Walker’s Guide to Harper’s Ferry, by David T. Gilbert, available at the Park Service bookstore.

Cultural events draw crowds as well. The Harpers Ferry Historical Association (304-535-6881) sponsors photography workshops, art classes, bluegrass concerts, and many other special events. Or participate in one of the Elderhostel programs (877-426-8056), held twice a year.

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